Pore size is one of the most fixated-upon features in skincare, and also one of the most misunderstood. Products promising to “shrink pores” line every shelf. Treatments claiming to “close pores” are offered at every spa. And none of them can actually do what they promise, because pore size is determined by genetics and is not physically changeable.
## What Pores Actually Are
Pores are the openings of hair follicles on the skin’s surface. Each pore contains a sebaceous (oil) gland that produces sebum. The size of the pore is determined by the size of the underlying oil gland, which is genetically predetermined. People with oily skin tend to have larger pores because their sebaceous glands are larger and more active. People with dry skin tend to have smaller pores.
Pores do not open and close. They do not have muscles that contract and expand. The popular advice to “open your pores with steam” and “close them with cold water” is physiologically incorrect. Steam can soften the sebum and debris inside a pore, making it easier to extract. Cold water can temporarily cause the skin around the pore to contract slightly, creating the illusion of smaller pores. Neither changes the actual pore size.
## Why Pores Look Bigger Over Time
While pore size itself does not change, several factors can make pores appear larger. Excess sebum and dead skin cells accumulate inside pores, stretching them and making them more visible. Sun damage degrades the collagen around pore walls, causing them to lose structural support and sag open. Loss of skin firmness with age makes pores appear more prominent against a less taut surface.
## What Actually Minimizes Their Appearance
Keeping pores clean through consistent cleansing and appropriate use of salicylic acid (a BHA that dissolves sebum inside the pore) reduces the stretched, clogged appearance. Retinoids accelerate cell turnover and reduce sebum production, which keeps pores clearer and less visible over time. Niacinamide regulates oil production and has been shown to visually reduce pore prominence with consistent use.
Professional treatments like microneedling and certain laser treatments stimulate collagen production around the pore walls, providing structural support that makes them appear tighter. The result is genuine but incremental.
Pore size is genetic. Pore appearance is manageable. Understanding the difference prevents frustration and focuses effort on strategies that actually produce visible improvement.
